History of the summit
The first attempts to conquer McKinley were made at the dawn of the XX century. In 1903, Dr. Frederick cook, who successfully combined his profession with the role of a traveler, tried to storm the summit. The participants of the expedition overcame the height of 3700 m, where their journey ended. The reason for the stop was the threat of an avalanche. The travelers were returning by a different route – they were forced to walk more than 1000 km in extremely dangerous conditions. Cook decided not to give up and after 3 years again began climbing the highest point of the North American continent. A few months later, he still managed to reach the top, where he stayed with his friends for 20 minutes. In the following years, the traveler published a book called "on the roof of the continent"and enjoyed the fame of discovering the summit of McKinley.
Hudson Stuck and Harry Karstens — the leaders of the first successful ascent of mount McKinley in 1913.Hudson Stuck and Harry Karstens — the leaders of the first successful ascent of mount McKinley in 1913.
Rather unexpectedly, he was set up by an envious friend, Robert Peary. Having bribed travelers who reached the peak of the mountain with cook, he declared the untruthfulness of the doctor's exploits. The public accused Frederick cook of lying, but the traveler could not prove the opposite. The debate about whether the Explorer visited the summit lasted for a century. In 2006, Russian climbers passed along the road indicated by them, meeting the stated time frame. This was the end of many years of discussion-Frederick cook really reached the peak of McKinley.
The next expedition that successfully stormed the mountain was the group of priest Hudson Stack. It is this ascent to the summit that is officially recognized and is considered the first ever achievement of McKinley peak.
In 1932, an accident occurred on the mountain. Two climbers died during the ascent, topping McKinley's list of victims, which is updated annually. People die from cold, lack of oxygen, and lack of climbing skills.
Mount MC Cinovid to mount McKinley from the plane
2002 was marked by the ascent of the expedition of the Russian traveler Matvey Shparo, which included disabled people. On June 13, 2014, Spaniard Kilian Jornet Burgada set a record for the speed of climbing to the top, with a final result of 11 hours and 40 minutes. 7 months later, American climber Lonnie Dupre is the first time reached the summit alone in winter.
Mountain climbers ' guide
McKinley is described as one of the most difficult peaks to climb. The mountain has two peaks – North and South. The latter has a higher altitude, so it is the main goal of climbers.
It is better to plan the ascent in the spring months due to more acceptable weather conditions. To reach the top, you need to organize a full-fledged mountain expedition. Travelers need a good knowledge of the specifics of the area. Do not forget about the organization of the insurance system and the importance of warm clothing.